Sailing from Auckland to Opua (and the secret paths to North Island Robins)

Auckland to Opua (9 of 23)

Saddleback (Tiehe) on Tiritiri Matangi Island

Our first island-hopping stop after leaving Auckland was Rangitoto Island. Then Tiritiri Matangi – so beautiful. We made our way to the top, to the lighthouse, and saw a Takahe family. The chick was very fluffy and colourless and stayed very close to Mum.

Then it was off to Kawau Island where we stayed for two nights. Mansion House was very cool. We walked to the coppermine and back along the Redwood Track. Thanks to a brilliant upbringing, the smell of New Zealand bush is instant happiness for me. Tramping was our thing, and it used to be Dean and my thing too, until we bought a big boat.

Redwood track on Kawau Island

Redwood track on Kawau Island

We had to pull into Leigh for a lunch stop the next day because I started to freak at the winds and sea chop (easterly 25). This freak-out thing I do isn’t very helpful.  I don’t know if I need to try and change my immediate reaction, or what I do with it next; something to ponder.

Next stop, Whangaruru Harbour where we did the gorgeous walk around the headland. The track took us through a field of cows; actually they were bulls – luckily Dean didn’t say that until we’d gone through it.

I think I’m scared of everything. I screamed “shark, shark” yesterday. It was a dolphin. I didn’t want Dean to go under the boat to check the rudder. We were in three metres of water.

Things to be scared of:

  • Sharks
  • Hoisting Dean up the mast
  • Self-raising flour
  • Not buying enough toilet paper for our trip
  • Wind

Nice thoughts, nice thoughts.

Next, Bay of Islands, or The Bay of Boats, as Dean calls it.

We stopped at Moturua Island where we met a couple who were involved in Project Island Birdsong in the area. They were so passionate about our NZ birds. The woman talked about how they’d recently released 43 North Island Robins (Toutouwai ) onto the island. They walked ahead of us. When we came back from our 1.5 hour walk they returned yet (their dinghy was still there). I thought, how gorgeous – they’ve wandered off into the bush, onto less-marked tracks, to find how the Robins have settled in. How gorgeous to find something you love to do which takes you along different paths.

And we fished. Dean caught heaps – I just caught bubby snapper which we had to put back. We don’t like trevally, even in a fish pie I made. Gurnard is yum. We had fish every second day.

This is how we fish: I catch a fish, Dean catches a fish. Dean takes them off the line and kills them. Dean fillets them. Janie and Dean eat them!

Sailing into Paihia

Sailing into Paihia

As we sailed towards Paihia I yelled out, “Look, a car”. Dean yelled out, “Noooooo”. We’d been at sea for six days and hadn’t talked to many people or seen many houses.

Opua Marina now, until we leave early May. I like it here. People are friendly and from all over the world. They’ve all got a weathered look at the women are strong. There’s lot of talk of weather windows and satellite phones.

We can now just focus on getting ready for Tonga. There’s a dinghy graveyard at the beginning of our pier with about a dozen dinghies in. They’re all at different stages of decay and I’m sure each one has a story. And I’m sure each day we have will have a story.

WITH NOTHING SCARY IN IT.

Once upon a time there was a big sea and a boat called Pebbles. It sailed around the whole Pacific with fair winds and calm seas. The end. 

Nice, peaceful sailing!

Nice, peaceful sailing!

 

Auckland to Opua (7 of 23)

I’m not very practical but I did manage to attach the washing line to the safety line

 

Tiritiri Matangi - the walk along the top is the like walk along Mana Island

Tiritiri Matangi – the walk along the top is the like walk along Mana Island

Tiritiri Matangi

Tiritiri Matangi

 

 

 

 

Zena the duck (how rehoming your dog is hard)

Meet Zena the duck.

Harris Bay, Kawau Island. Our resident ducks. One is called Zena. Actually every animal I see is called Zena, after our beautiful golden lab, Zena, who we have temporarily rehomed to the Coffee family. The seagull on our dinghy at Rangitoto Island was called Zena. The takahe bubby on Tiritiri Matenga was called Zena. The wasp who tried to sting me this morning was not. We know Zena is happy with her new family but it’s still hard. Woofie woof.

zena

Offshore Medic Course – learning to sew Dean up

I hope we NEVER need any of the skills we learnt over the weekend.

Dean and I went on a two-day offshore medic course. We are now meant to be able to survive at sea until someone rescues us.

We nicknamed our tutor Rambo Medic. He’s an ex combat medic and his face lights up when he talks about people being blown up and tropical diseases that “kill very beautifully”. He was very entertaining and a good teacher.

Here’s some of what we learnt:

  • Sea water has many bacteria and other nasties in. This is why cuts/burns get infected very quickly at sea.
  • There are lots of other uses for condoms while at sea, like putting one over a needle that’s stuck into someone’s chest to help them breathe.
  • When someone is ill at sea, feed them BRAT food (banana, rice, apples, toast).
  • Your stomach should gurgle every ten seconds. If it doesn’t, there’s something going on in there.
  • Slapping people is good. It can bring them out of shock and calm a hypochondriac (who, accordingly to Rambo Medic, are usually white, middle-class women). In the last course we did with him I made a list of all the groups/ethnicities that he offended, including fat,  skinny, short and tall people.
  • The symptoms for every tropical disease are basically the same and start with flu-like symptoms. Helpful.
  • Mosquitos love white light and pale blue clothing. Locals use oil on their skin as repellent.
  • I still react strongly to caffeine.  On the Sunday I had a coffee at lunch time because I was so exhausted. I’ve had three coffees in 30 years. Lately I’ve been trying to get used to caffeine because it’s an ingredient in some seasickness tablets.  Dean said I became “Hyper Janie” and was “only a bit annoying”. I’ve decided that even if the caffeine does help me get through a night shift, it will keep me awake when it’s over.

Your turn:

If your patient has their stomach contents hanging out, do you: a) Shove the contents back in and bandage the wound; b) leave them out, wrap it against the skin in plastic; or c) cut them off, put them in a plastic bag and give it to the medic when they arrive. Answer: B.

We learnt techniques for clearing airways, CPR, relocating dislocated shoulders, sewing stitches, administering drugs into the butt, replacing fluids etc.

But when it’s a 50 knot storm and there’s just me and Dean, and he’s knocked out with a bone sticking out of his arm and not breathing, and I’m at the wheel hyperventilating because it’s too rough for our autopilot – how the hell am I doing to do CPR, stop the bleed and reverse his hyperthermia?

Rambo Medic said it’s fine to stamp on Dean’s chest as I steer – whatever it takes.

Apparently it’s a grey area whether doing this Offshore Medic course is part of Cat 1. We were definitely going to do it though. But I now even more paranoid about medical stuff while at sea. I’m going to have to add this to my “let it go” list.

Gulp.

We’re leaving Auckland tomorrow.  Hopefully. We’ve been waiting on parts. And Dean has been clever with things like hanging the dinghy from the arch at the back of the boat, fixing the radar he blew up, fixing the water maker, securing the oven top and lots of other things. And I’ve been playing shop, buying storage containers and programming emergency numbers into our satellite phone. More about the sailing boy-girl thing later – it’s a Thesis subject for sure.

First stop, Rangitoto Island, then Waikheke Island, Tiritiri Matangi, Kawau Island and up to Opua.

Still pinching ourselves.

Rambo Medic showing us how to insert catheter. Only to be done under medical advice!

Rambo Medic showing us how to insert a catheter. Only to be done under medical advice!

 

Me checking my own tongue for sickness

Me checking my own tongue for sickness.

Dean learning to sew stitches on a pigs trotter (close to human skin.)

Dean learning to sew stitches on a pigs trotter (close to human skin).

The pigs trotter stunk a bit

The pig’s trotter stunk a bit.

My messy stitch on the left, Dean's perfect stich on the left

My messy stitch on the left, Dean’s perfect stich on the right.

Afterwards!

Afterwards!

Seeing Auckland – the best sight ever

 

We made it! Five days, 90% headwinds, 80% motoring, minus one headsail, two dozen hard boiled eggs, three bags of scroggen and eight little bruises.

I’m about to have a nana nap – night shifts are very tough. Feels worse that jetlag. Dean is running the radar cable and contemplating our prop issues. Our crew, Glenn and Ian (amazing, amazing people) have gone back to Wellington and we’ll be in Auckland until next Monday. We’re doing the offshore medic course over the weekend so I can learn how to sew Dean up and shove a pen in his neck. Then it’s off to Opua (via Waiheke and other gorgeous islands) and leaving for Tonga 2 May.

Here’s a little bit from my journal and photos are below:

Not many people get to see the world from this view. Apart from the a few slithers, the landscape is rugged with no access. Big cliffs fall into the sea with treacherous rocks as toes.

We’re in precious cell phone range and Glenn has just received a text. His text receiver sound is of a door bell. That’s either going to drive me nuts or be comforting.

Soon I’ll be doing my first night shift sailing, ever. Are you kidding me? They’ll find out soon I’m a fake and throw me over board.

I’m faffing around: Sunglasses off, sunglasses on, neck warmer off, can’t find neck warmer, snack, drink, snack, feel sick, do I need to go to the loo again? Where’s Dean? oh god he’s overboard, rearrange snacks box again. Just relax! Relax? I’m in a plastic boat about to go around the bloody east coast a 35 knots headwind. Get me off.

And here are some pics. Only happy, nice calm ones! Will work out how to orientate portrait ones soon.

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So much to do when there’s nothing to do

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First blog, Palliser Bay, before it all turned icky

 

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Head sail gone, storm jib ready, gennaker flying, boys happy

 

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Glenn contemplating the heavens

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Ian just contemplating

 

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Still haven’t proven that sailing is not scary

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Always on the lookout for flappy sails

 

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Sigh

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Hick’s Bay

 

 

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One of the first to see the sunrise in the world, on the east coast – note the weird eye look from lack of sleep

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The fabulous Ian

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Shocker of a hair do

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So beautiful

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Mercury Islands

 

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There’s a reason why Dean called out dinghy BamBam

 

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Land, land, land

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Yes, land…down Auckland harbour at 7am…very surreal and very wonderful

 

 

We did it! Now, how to brush your teeth in a storm…

IMG_1351Yip, we left. Unbelievable. Two years in the planning so all quite surreal. There was a moment when I was hugging my niece Mia when I thought, mmm, maybe I could just sneak off now…

Thank you to those family and friends who hooted and waved us off (Alison, the balloons lasted to Cape Palliser!)

The first  day was lovely…calm seas, dolphins, Aratiki ferry, cups of tea. From 3pm it turned to *hit. Gale force winds and choppy seas, all through the night.  Not all bad though – the ferry rang us to tell us he was passing on our starboard. How about that.

The eyelet in our jib ripped so we are now without a headsail. We’re motoring and using our storm jib.  Dean’s not impressed.

This afternoon it calmed down and we were able to do things like brush our teeth. Imagine been in your own person earthquake in a crate – that what it’s like trying to brush your teeth while underway. God, I looked in the mirror – bad mistake.

But we’re all well and happy – a bit tired.

A couple of weeks ago a woman said to me that for her, sailing is either terrifying or boring. Yep.

Better go – I’m on shift soon. We’re doing four hour shifts overnight, with cross overs.  No time to spell check. We’re just off Cape Turnagain. Didn’t make much progress today. Not in miles anyway.

Sailing is not scary, sailing is not scary, sailing is not scary. IT’S ALL LIES.

xox

PS. Penny, you may have converted Dean to fruit cake.