Sea Mercy (and who you meet at posh resorts)

First of all, this trip is about relaxation and happiness after a very difficult few years. It’s tropical sands, fresh fruit and lazy mornings for us. Maybe.

A few days ago we sailed (motor sailed I mean) to Vuna Point, Tavenui, Fiji, to a lovely cruiser-friendly resort called Paradise Resort (free mooring if you buy something…mmm…pina colada…) We wanted to have a calm nights sleep and sit on a real toilet and one of those pool lounge chairs.

Here we met Richard from an organisation called Sea Mercy. Sea Mercy is a fleet of boats that provide healthcare to remote islands in the Pacific. In light of where we are about to go next – Vanuatu – it’s quite apt that we bumped into Richard here.

When we left Opua there was a poster in the laundry from Sea Mercy. Amongst the boat preparations, crew arriving and general petrified anxiety, I didn’t find out more.

So maybe it’s this trip, or another, but I feel like we’ve planted a seed. Even if nothing eventuates, it’s was lovely meeting Richard and his son, and to see what can happen when inner and outer worlds collide.

We’re coming back to New Zealand in November. After that?

Now, back to planning our local bus trip tomorrow to the Indian town of Labasa…sari orders anyone?

 

This is the dinghy off one of Sea Mercy's fleet - Dragonfly. The skipper and his partner used to charter their boat in the Caribbean then gave that up to join Sea Mercy. This dinghy is powered by a bicycle! Actually, the motor was going too.

This is the dinghy off one of Sea Mercy’s fleet – Dragonfly. The skipper and his partner used to charter their boat in the Caribbean then gave that up to join Sea Mercy. This dinghy is powered by a bicycle! Actually, the motor was going too.

 

We also met two amazing, lovely photographers at the resort. Octavia (not pictured) goes around the world with her photography project 'Letting Go'. In this photo, the other photographer, Kent is showing Richard and his son how to do long exposure photography

We also met two amazing, lovely photographers at the resort. Octavia (not pictured) goes around the world with her photography project ‘Letting Go’. In this photo, the other photographer, Kent, is showing Richard and his son how to do long exposure photography

 

The local primary school had slogans like this along their fence. It was Drugs, Child Abuse, Violence Against Girls & Women and HIV/Aids Awareness Week !!!!

The local primary school had slogans like this along their fence. It was Drugs, Child Abuse, Violence Against Girls & Women and HIV/Aids Awareness Week !!!!

 

These are no ordinary coconuts. The coconut oil from these coconuts is exported to little olde Kapiti where our friend Corrin makes her SMOOCH body products.

These are no ordinary coconuts. The coconut oil from these coconuts is exported to little olde Kapiti where our friend Corrin makes her SMOOCH body products.

 

It's 'winter' here. Something beautiful.

It’s ‘winter’ here.

 

Road kill. Fiji style.

Road kill. Fiji style.

 

Last day in Tonga (and going to church)

The last day of Tonga and I went to church in Neiafu. It was in Tongan but I didn’t care – the singing was very moving. Although most of the people there had nothing, they looked pristine and beautiful in their church clothes, especially the kids.

But after ten minutes or so the kids got sticky and bored in their polyester dresses and buttoned up shirts. One boy in front of me found a piece of sticky tape and did different things with it – over his eye like a pirate; over his lips then tried to stretch a smile; on his cheek, up his nose – until he got an almighty whack from the older woman sitting next to him.

The next service I went to was Vanua Levu in Fiji. The Minister kindly did the service in English and Fijian which made it two hours long.

Luckily no one has asked me what my religion I follow. I’m still not sure what I’d say because I don’t want to lie but I also don’t want to tell anyone I’m only there for singing. I don’t think I’ll go again – it’s a bit disingenuous.

But watching people being devoted to something is so beautiful.

Down the road from the church is a monastery. It looked kind of run down. I wanted to go in and be nosy but then I would of been late for church!

Down the road from the church is a monastery. It rustically run down. I wanted to go in and be nosy but then I would of been late for church!

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The town of Neiafu is such a contrast to the affluent harbour.

This lovely young woman in the duty free alcohol shop thinks Tongan boys are cheeky and drunk. She wants to meet a nice Maori boy from New Zealand. I asked her if us Palangi look silly walking around town in our clothes, cameras and caps. She giggled and said, "Yes".

This lovely young woman in the duty free alcohol shop thinks Tongan boys are cheeky and drunk. She wants to meet a nice Maori boy from New Zealand. I asked her if us Palangi look silly walking around town. She giggled and said, “Yes”.

Dean had his first taste of Tongan white bread here. It was the fluffiest bread he'd ever eaten.

Dean had his first taste of Tongan white bread here. It was the fluffiest bread he’d ever eaten.

Still can't find a good reason why most people treat their dogs so appallingly. There's a volunteer vet here who goes around desexing, worming and defleaing dogs, but her work is like one flea in a haystack.

Still can’t find a good reason why most people treat their dogs so appallingly. There’s a volunteer vet here who goes around desexing, worming and defleaing dogs, but her work is like one flea amongst trillions.

Cool colors.

Cool colors.

Vege markets at Neiafu. Best passionfruit I've ever had. When I get back to the boat with fresh food I rinse in salt water to get bugs off, then in fresh water to get unhelpful bacteria off. Apparently one year all the boats shared the same salad and all got giardia.

Vege markets at Neiafu. Best passionfruit I’ve ever had. When I get back to the boat with fresh food I rinse in salt water to get bugs off, then in fresh water to get unhelpful bacteria off. Apparently one year all the boats shared the same salad and all got giardia.

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Watching Mummy whales give birth to bubby whales is the main tourist attraction here.

NB: We left Tonga 8 June but have only just got internet!

Arriving in Fiji (and an epiphany about adventure)

Last week we had an epiphany. After a day sail from our first port of call in Fiji, the remote Northern Lau group of islands, we arrived in Naiviivi Bay, north eastern group around Tavenui. We were tired, a little grumpy, stinky and just wanted to blob.

One of the other boats in the bay called us up on the VHF and invited us up to the little village on the hill for a night of dancing and meeting the locals. We said no. An Indian boil-in-the-bag meal (we’ve had no shops for ten days); an episode of Bates Motel; and early bed was on the cards for us. Cruisers Midnight has moved from 9pm to 8pm.

We turned the VHS off and looked at each other. Where we really going to turn down an opportunity like this? Did we really invest our life savings (and debt) and years of planning, and time away from family and doggie to lie down and watch tele?

So we went. We’ve decided to always grab opportunities, especially if we may never get the chance to do it again. So our days are full of firsts.

Our Pacific and cruising training wheels were off. From then on we’ve explored whenever we can.

The trip the village was extraordinary. We did sevusevu (drinking muddy cava and being initiated into the whanau) and the local kids did some traditional dancing. If this was in the West, those kids would have been plucked out and sent to the National Dance School. The energy, dedication, skill and natural performance blew us away.

A local French sailor had been there for three months and had become the official tour guide. This included showing us a ‘magic’ wishing well where you picked a leaf, made a wish, and placed it in the crevices of a white stone wall. My first thought was to wish for world peace, but I ended up wishing that Dean and I would stop niggling at each other.

Since our epiphany we’ve bush bashed from Horseshoe Bay on Matagi Island to the ridge; walked up the 272 steps at Bvatu Harbour to a coconut and mandarin plantation; got lost behind Dalconi Village and followed a local track to god knows where; and caught a rickety local bus instead of hiring a taxi.

The less glamorous side to all this is that my feet are starting to go mouldy; we’re always in water of some kind, or sweating from walking in dodgy places. And we’re always challenged. It’s not just the sailing thing to be scared of – spiders on goat tracks (Dean calls them all Fred), bacteria in street food, not packing the right things (I do take too much though), to not lock the boat or lock the boat and mega other things I manage to get myself anxious about.

I’m trying to chill. That’s the biggest adventure for me. Dean is always chilled except if the watermaker makes a funny sound.

He of course will always be the one to climb to the top of the rocks and jump into the waterhole, or swim behind the waterfall, or snorkel right down to the bottom, or put full sail out when the lean-o-metre is well away from its smiley face.. He’s very kind to me when I yell, “Nooooooooooooooooooo”. Mostly.

We’ve got more scratches and sometimes we end up in dumb places, but mostly it’s fantastic. It’s also surreal. How lucky are we. Still pinching ourselves.

Somosomo, Tavenui (just before we went on a bumpy local bus ride). These are our fake camera smiles.

Somosomo, Tavenui (just before we went on a bumpy local bus ride). These are our fake camera smiles.

Bumpy bus ride took us to Bouma National Heritage Park to see waterfalls. Four villages got together and created this stunning park. As we walked out there were two women raking leaves off the path.

Bumpy bus ride took us to Bouma National Heritage Park to see waterfalls. Four villages got together and created this stunning park. As we walked out there were two women raking leaves off the path.

 

Dean is always spying on  other boats.

Dean is always spying on something.

Pretty much beautiful stuff at every turn.

Pretty much beautiful stuff at every turn.

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Sigh.

Our first sevusevu ceremony and first bowl of cava. It tastes disgusting. My lips went numb. Dean had two.

Our first sevusevu ceremony and first bowl of cava. It tastes like warm, muddy dish washing liquid. My lips went numb. Dean had two.

Bay of Islands

Bay of Islands, Northern Lau…kind of a cross between Queen Charlotte Sounds and Ha Long Bay. We lost our favourite bed spread here – it fell in to the water as we were anchoring (not a good time to be rescuing things).

 

Zena!

Zena!

 

This fabulous woman is the health officer plus new building inspector. So she was there when we checked into Fiji, then we saw her here, making sure a new preschool was built to the right standards.

This fabulous woman is the health officer plus new building inspector in Vanua Levu. She was there when we checked into Fiji, then we saw her here, making sure a new preschool was built to the right standards. The blokes didn’t look too impressed that a woman was checking their skills.

 

A benefit of getting lost - coming across one ripe pawpaw in a bunch, about to fall.

A benefit of getting lost – coming across one ripe pawpaw in a bunch, about to fall.

 

Postcard colors.

Postcard colors.