As the sun came up after three hideous night shifts from Fiji, we saw Vanuatu. Did we expect to see something broken? We knew this country, more than the others on our adventure, was going to be different because of the devastation of Cyclone Pam.

It’s the first time we’ve sailed downwind for any length of time. Very rocky rolly but I wasn’t seasick (no medication). Woop woop. Dean was in his element because he got the genaker out. No fish. But we caught ONE in Fiji. Fish count for the whole five months – ONE. A beautiful bright yellow mahi mahi. We were so scared we’d caught a poisonous one that we didn’t eat it till someone confirmed it was okay. Best fish ever. Except for Queen Charlotte Sounds blue cod of course.

The first island we saw, Aneityum, in southern Vanuatu, looked so solid it could blow any cyclone away. The first thing I thought of was that it looked like Kapiti Island – a chief lying down with his hands over his belly. No palm trees, just cliffs and ridges and lushness. I had a bit of an emotional moment – of course it could totally be self-created from my own expectations. Other’s felt it too.  

We spent five days in the main village in Analgawat Bay getting to know the villagers and the land. I think it takes at least a week for them to realise you’re not just going to leave before they invest in you. They are a lot shyer than Fijians. I like that.

The first days were taken up with ‘festivities’. First, a not-so-much-cringe cultural tour around the village, then and a show and feast on nearby Mystery Island. Parts were fascinating (seeing how they cook, umu and hangi style; and how they still fish with traditional grass nets). And some were very uncomfortable (women in traditional gear showing weaving techniques – it was a very cold night).

On the tour, Kenneth, our tour guide, had his two sons demonstrate how to use the fishing nets. They looked like typical awkward, disinterested teenagers. This village has introduced more traditional ways that have been lost since the missionaries came. They kick their sons out when they are teenagers and teach them to build and house and fish. There are these cool little huts around the island with ‘Danger, Keep Out’ signs on. They are a few metres away from their parents hut but could be in another land.

The police station on the main island was hilarious. It was a small, concrete building that had a lock-up cell the size of a closet, with a teeny padlock on. Above the door was a big sign in capitals, NO RAPE. All the posters on the walls were in English and the floor was stacked with outboard motors. A TV was playing a cartoon where characters were bashing each other.

The ‘shop’ sells two minute noodles and the only DVD’s you can buy are Rastafarian music videos. I never saw a DVD player or a TV.

I met a cat on nearby Mystery Island where the show and feast was. It lived on the island alone with no other cats or dogs or humans. It wasn’t skinny but it had a bung eye. It was obviously fed tourist scraps because when I asked where we should put the leftovers on our plate after the feast, I was given a sweeping motion. P&O Cruises come here most weeks. Mystery Island cat had the cutest, round face. It would hate being a boat cat. Maybe.

Most of the ICA boats left the next day – we were sick of rushing – so we stayed. There’s such a difference between a holiday and an adventure. Then add a whole new layer like a country recovering from a cyclone and it’s overwhelming.

However, I am now totally over my, “What’s paradise, what’s home, why aren’t I happier?” neurosis. Vanuatu, so far, has been very sobering and totally awesome.

Tomorrow a waterfall, the next day a live volcano: wholy shit. As Kim says, “There’s no ‘ho-hum’ on this adventure'”.

Sorry, no photos. Internet too dodgy here, even in the capital. Wait till you see the video of the volcano at Tanna Island.

Tomorrow we go out to the outer islands – really in wop-wop land. Can’t wait. We’re fascinated by this place. It’s very special