Things outside your comfort zone

When Dean and I first met, I bought him a card with a huge door on the front, ajar. At the very bottom of the door was a tiny, terrified kitten, poking it’s head out into the world. That’s how I feel right now. Inside the card said, “the best things in life are outside of your comfort zone”. This is how I’m trying to feel right now. I can’t believe I’ve left my furbaby again, my family and friends, university routines, and our lovely marina community.

Of course this is just nerves and I have a full perspective of where we are going and what we intend to do there. I keep looking at images from Suva, or Ovalau and I’m already there. I’m looking forward to us experiencing the Pacific in a different way this time, outside of the perception of the paradise dream and assumptions about traditional lives. I know it’s not going to be easy, but I also know that this can bring great things.

I had a conversation with an Canadian woman yesterday about travelling. She spoke a lot about travelling through places like India and how difficult it is to cope with beggars and poverty. I said that I thought that this was one of the aspects of being privileged and being able to afford to travel, and that if you chuck in the capitalist-human efforts of climate change, we must all continue to challenge our connections to people. Silence. Must get better and delivering things.

It’s been quite a journey so far. We sailed from Mana to Auckland, up the West Coast. We stayed in Auckland for a few days and caught up with family and friends, then headed back up to Opua. The choice to go up the West Coast was inspired. The argument goes that if you go up the West Coast there is nowhere to hide if it all turns belly up. But, with weather prediction software being as good as it is, and this coastal weather being a lot more settled and predictable than the terror East, we figured the changes of things turning belly up and being in extreme weather, were slim. Also, our last trip up the East Coast in 2015 was a total nightmare.  I almost enjoyed the sailing this time (ssshhhh).

Highlights so far:  having our crew member Ian back on Pebbles – you are fabulous Ian, thank you so much for supporting us in your lovely way and for being such an interesting person; seeing Mt Taranaki and Cape Reinga; meeting Noah for the first time (my Dad’s Godson); sitting in the library at Auckland University and thinking “wow, I’m here”; catching four fish on the way up, some of which is still in our freezer (tuna and mahimahi). Lowlights: missing Zena like crazy; sailing boredom with occasional terror; breakages/things going wrong on the boat include main sail, head sail, gennaker, batteries, anchor light, furler, fridge lid, dinghy. WTF? And realising (again) that the sailing community, while amazing, can be very sexist: on the regular VHF cruisers net the other morning some funny (not) man decided to auction up his wife in the buy-sell-swap section. Some men pitched in with funny (not) comments so I pitched in with “sexisim went out in the 80s guys”. Silence. Realising that NOT being out of your comfort zone feels bloody fabulous!

Click on the photos below to read the captions. Next time I’ll work out how to get them in chronological order.

Steve, our crew and marina neighbour, is arriving today. Can’t wait. We hope to leave on Monday. I will post a photo of our last image of New Zealand then, otherwise, Fiji here we come!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Goodbye Pebble Rebel

I’m not ready to die, said Bill:

I have so much to do,

I have my yacht to sail

And to do some travelling too.

I am sorry Bill the big man said, with a gentle smile.

Come sit with me & rest your bones

And we’ll watch the world sail by

 

 

Bill Byford, obituary in the Dominion Post today.

Bye Bill. Lots of love Jan, and family. From Janie and Dean, and Pebbles.

www.sailingisnotscary.com/our-boat/

We’re home (and my love affair with the sea)

Over 7,000 nautical miles, five countries in seven months, way more diesel than we thought, four different kinds of sea sickness tablets, incredible experiences and a potential love affair with the sea – and we are home.

After a three and a half day sail from Opua, down the West Coast of New Zealand, we’re back in our berth at Mana Marina. Kyle, Dean’s brother, joined us for this last leg and he was wonderful to have on board. Having a crew member that you already care about and who knows you is fabulous.

Being home is very surreal. Suddenly we are familiar. I’m trying to do useful things like clean out the snacks containers and sort out work, but sleep deprivation from night shifts and adrenaline is quite a drug.

We had a gorgeous welcome party with family – thank you so much everyone – you’ve made coming home very special. And of course we are reunited with the biggest love affair of all – our doggie, Zena.

So now what? While we were away we had plans. We were going to pay off debt and save like crazy then go away again in 2017, visit fewer countries, spend more time in villages and get beyond touristy visits. Dean is dead keen. I’m not sure.

Why the hell would I want to bob around again in a furious ocean in a little plastic boat with the wind screaming at me?

I really thought this affair would have developed. I’ve learnt more about sailing but not enough to overcome fear.

Our trip down from Opua was lovely at first (I almost enjoyed little bits of it) and then we came around from the Taranaki nob and the southerly hit. It was three metre swells, 25 knots on the nose and all early romance over. I didn’t drink enough water because going to the loo was too traumatising.  I was rude. I left my body and expected to die. There were dolphins and I didn’t care.

We’ve met cruisers who have been at sea for 35 years. They’re sure, they can fish, they know all the knots. Maybe they expect to die at some point but they are madly in love with the lifestyle.

I get the freedom side of it and all the amazing things about travel. But, for me, cruising is ultimately self indulgent. If I do it again I will need to find a way to make it mean more.

But, as I walked down the pier towards our boat today, I felt happy. Not just the absence of stress and sadness, but something like happiness. Perhaps I do have a potential new love.

I’m going to post some geeky-boat things over the next while about how we prepared for the trip, what clothes were useless, hair tips and our favourite bays, as well as my neurotic thoughts on this whole sailing is scary thing. So I won’t be offended if you’re not into that, and want to unsubscribe. But I hope you’ll stay connected and share my posts.

PS. So far, the best seasickness tables are Phenergan 10mg – no side effects and no spewing.

PPS. Things I miss already: getting in the dinghy and venturing up a river; turtles; being friendly and that not scaring people off; not knowing what’s going to happen in the next hour.

 

Our first sight of NZ. Very emotional.

 

And bloody cold.

 

My lovely new friend, Gail from Puponga. When we left in May she gave me a pounamu koru necklace to keep me safe. She was one of the first hugs I got when we first got back. Happy adventures Gail.

My lovely new friend, Gail from Puponga. When we left in May she gave me a pounamu koru necklace to keep me safe. I knew she was fabulous when the Opua Cruising Club were busy one night so she went into the kitchen and helped out doing the dishes. Gail was one of the first hugs when we got back. This was Gail’s first ever selfie. Happy adventures Gail.

 

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A staph infection or bite within an hour of getting back to NZ! Dean watched Stargate episodes on the boat for a week while I ventured around Opua and Kerikeri. 

 

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I called him Fat Foot for a few days.

 

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Russell. We loved the Bay of Islands and almost stayed. Dean got offered work at one of the charter companies. But the fantasy didn’t last too long (although one more sign from the universe and we could of stayed).

 

Summer Bay, Urupukapuka Island - as beautiful as anywhere in the Pacific.

Summer Bay, Urupukapuka Island – as beautiful as anywhere in the Pacific.

 

My lovely Dad joined us for a very special weekend.

My lovely Dad joined us for a very special weekend.

 

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From Paradise Bay looking out at Moturoa Island. Sigh.

 

A very big snapper and an even bigger red thing that we didn't eat.

A big snapper and an even bigger red thing that we didn’t eat.

 

Another bad, bad fringe cut.

Another bad, bad fringe cut.

 

Sailing us

On our way down the West Coast after three night shifts, looking like crap.

 

I've done my share of 360 turns at night. Our auto-pilot turns off at random and unless you know the compass heading straight away, it can take ages to get the boat back in the right direction - until I started to write the heading above the chart plotter. So proud of myself for coming up with something practical (other than righty-tighty, lefty-loosey!)

I’ve done my share of 360 turns at night. Our auto-pilot turns off at random and unless you know the compass heading straight away, it can take ages to get the boat back in the right direction – until I started to write the heading above the chart plotter. So proud of myself for coming up with something practical.

 

Back home, walking Zena in Pauatahanui Inlet. Long may this last.

Back home, walking Zena in Pauatahanui Inlet. Long may this wonderful feeling last. Thank you to the Coffeey-Beans for looking after Zena so well. She’s very happy and healthy and obviously loved. Come visit anytime. Woof.

 

 

 

 

 

Sailing from Auckland to Opua (and the secret paths to North Island Robins)

Auckland to Opua (9 of 23)

Saddleback (Tiehe) on Tiritiri Matangi Island

Our first island-hopping stop after leaving Auckland was Rangitoto Island. Then Tiritiri Matangi – so beautiful. We made our way to the top, to the lighthouse, and saw a Takahe family. The chick was very fluffy and colourless and stayed very close to Mum.

Then it was off to Kawau Island where we stayed for two nights. Mansion House was very cool. We walked to the coppermine and back along the Redwood Track. Thanks to a brilliant upbringing, the smell of New Zealand bush is instant happiness for me. Tramping was our thing, and it used to be Dean and my thing too, until we bought a big boat.

Redwood track on Kawau Island

Redwood track on Kawau Island

We had to pull into Leigh for a lunch stop the next day because I started to freak at the winds and sea chop (easterly 25). This freak-out thing I do isn’t very helpful.  I don’t know if I need to try and change my immediate reaction, or what I do with it next; something to ponder.

Next stop, Whangaruru Harbour where we did the gorgeous walk around the headland. The track took us through a field of cows; actually they were bulls – luckily Dean didn’t say that until we’d gone through it.

I think I’m scared of everything. I screamed “shark, shark” yesterday. It was a dolphin. I didn’t want Dean to go under the boat to check the rudder. We were in three metres of water.

Things to be scared of:

  • Sharks
  • Hoisting Dean up the mast
  • Self-raising flour
  • Not buying enough toilet paper for our trip
  • Wind

Nice thoughts, nice thoughts.

Next, Bay of Islands, or The Bay of Boats, as Dean calls it.

We stopped at Moturua Island where we met a couple who were involved in Project Island Birdsong in the area. They were so passionate about our NZ birds. The woman talked about how they’d recently released 43 North Island Robins (Toutouwai ) onto the island. They walked ahead of us. When we came back from our 1.5 hour walk they returned yet (their dinghy was still there). I thought, how gorgeous – they’ve wandered off into the bush, onto less-marked tracks, to find how the Robins have settled in. How gorgeous to find something you love to do which takes you along different paths.

And we fished. Dean caught heaps – I just caught bubby snapper which we had to put back. We don’t like trevally, even in a fish pie I made. Gurnard is yum. We had fish every second day.

This is how we fish: I catch a fish, Dean catches a fish. Dean takes them off the line and kills them. Dean fillets them. Janie and Dean eat them!

Sailing into Paihia

Sailing into Paihia

As we sailed towards Paihia I yelled out, “Look, a car”. Dean yelled out, “Noooooo”. We’d been at sea for six days and hadn’t talked to many people or seen many houses.

Opua Marina now, until we leave early May. I like it here. People are friendly and from all over the world. They’ve all got a weathered look at the women are strong. There’s lot of talk of weather windows and satellite phones.

We can now just focus on getting ready for Tonga. There’s a dinghy graveyard at the beginning of our pier with about a dozen dinghies in. They’re all at different stages of decay and I’m sure each one has a story. And I’m sure each day we have will have a story.

WITH NOTHING SCARY IN IT.

Once upon a time there was a big sea and a boat called Pebbles. It sailed around the whole Pacific with fair winds and calm seas. The end. 

Nice, peaceful sailing!

Nice, peaceful sailing!

 

Auckland to Opua (7 of 23)

I’m not very practical but I did manage to attach the washing line to the safety line

 

Tiritiri Matangi - the walk along the top is the like walk along Mana Island

Tiritiri Matangi – the walk along the top is the like walk along Mana Island

Tiritiri Matangi

Tiritiri Matangi

 

 

 

 

Zena the duck (how rehoming your dog is hard)

Meet Zena the duck.

Harris Bay, Kawau Island. Our resident ducks. One is called Zena. Actually every animal I see is called Zena, after our beautiful golden lab, Zena, who we have temporarily rehomed to the Coffee family. The seagull on our dinghy at Rangitoto Island was called Zena. The takahe bubby on Tiritiri Matenga was called Zena. The wasp who tried to sting me this morning was not. We know Zena is happy with her new family but it’s still hard. Woofie woof.

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Seeing Auckland – the best sight ever

 

We made it! Five days, 90% headwinds, 80% motoring, minus one headsail, two dozen hard boiled eggs, three bags of scroggen and eight little bruises.

I’m about to have a nana nap – night shifts are very tough. Feels worse that jetlag. Dean is running the radar cable and contemplating our prop issues. Our crew, Glenn and Ian (amazing, amazing people) have gone back to Wellington and we’ll be in Auckland until next Monday. We’re doing the offshore medic course over the weekend so I can learn how to sew Dean up and shove a pen in his neck. Then it’s off to Opua (via Waiheke and other gorgeous islands) and leaving for Tonga 2 May.

Here’s a little bit from my journal and photos are below:

Not many people get to see the world from this view. Apart from the a few slithers, the landscape is rugged with no access. Big cliffs fall into the sea with treacherous rocks as toes.

We’re in precious cell phone range and Glenn has just received a text. His text receiver sound is of a door bell. That’s either going to drive me nuts or be comforting.

Soon I’ll be doing my first night shift sailing, ever. Are you kidding me? They’ll find out soon I’m a fake and throw me over board.

I’m faffing around: Sunglasses off, sunglasses on, neck warmer off, can’t find neck warmer, snack, drink, snack, feel sick, do I need to go to the loo again? Where’s Dean? oh god he’s overboard, rearrange snacks box again. Just relax! Relax? I’m in a plastic boat about to go around the bloody east coast a 35 knots headwind. Get me off.

And here are some pics. Only happy, nice calm ones! Will work out how to orientate portrait ones soon.

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So much to do when there’s nothing to do

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First blog, Palliser Bay, before it all turned icky

 

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Head sail gone, storm jib ready, gennaker flying, boys happy

 

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Glenn contemplating the heavens

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Ian just contemplating

 

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Still haven’t proven that sailing is not scary

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Always on the lookout for flappy sails

 

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Sigh

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Hick’s Bay

 

 

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One of the first to see the sunrise in the world, on the east coast – note the weird eye look from lack of sleep

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The fabulous Ian

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Shocker of a hair do

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So beautiful

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Mercury Islands

 

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There’s a reason why Dean called out dinghy BamBam

 

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Land, land, land

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Yes, land…down Auckland harbour at 7am…very surreal and very wonderful

 

 

We did it! Now, how to brush your teeth in a storm…

IMG_1351Yip, we left. Unbelievable. Two years in the planning so all quite surreal. There was a moment when I was hugging my niece Mia when I thought, mmm, maybe I could just sneak off now…

Thank you to those family and friends who hooted and waved us off (Alison, the balloons lasted to Cape Palliser!)

The first  day was lovely…calm seas, dolphins, Aratiki ferry, cups of tea. From 3pm it turned to *hit. Gale force winds and choppy seas, all through the night.  Not all bad though – the ferry rang us to tell us he was passing on our starboard. How about that.

The eyelet in our jib ripped so we are now without a headsail. We’re motoring and using our storm jib.  Dean’s not impressed.

This afternoon it calmed down and we were able to do things like brush our teeth. Imagine been in your own person earthquake in a crate – that what it’s like trying to brush your teeth while underway. God, I looked in the mirror – bad mistake.

But we’re all well and happy – a bit tired.

A couple of weeks ago a woman said to me that for her, sailing is either terrifying or boring. Yep.

Better go – I’m on shift soon. We’re doing four hour shifts overnight, with cross overs.  No time to spell check. We’re just off Cape Turnagain. Didn’t make much progress today. Not in miles anyway.

Sailing is not scary, sailing is not scary, sailing is not scary. IT’S ALL LIES.

xox

PS. Penny, you may have converted Dean to fruit cake.