Things I’d never go sailing without

We really didn’t know what we were doing. We Googled and forumed like crazy. We took advice from helpful people and thought really, really hard. But at the end of the day, we still felt ill prepared. Having said that, there’s not a lot we’d do differently if we were going to go on a sailing adventure again.

Here are some things we would definitely take again.

Green Bags. These are breathable plastic bags to store vegetables in and keep in the fridge. I did an experiment before we left: I brought two broccoli; one went in the fridge naked and the other went in in a Green Bag. The Green Bag one lasted three times as long. I get them from Trade Me (just put Green Bags in the search box). They’re imported from USA – NASA International Space Shuttle used to use them. You can wash them and reuse them 8-10 times – at least that’s what the instructions say – but I used them about 20.  Still good. Tip: Make sure there’s no moisture on the vege/fruit when you put them in. Or if there is, wrap a paper towel around it for a day or so.

Charcoal tablets and Alpine tea. When my Mum was dying, all the hospice nurses were obsessed with her bowels. Sailing can also be all about the bowels. For any kind of tummy bug or diarrhoea, we used charcoal tablets (thanks Peter). They absorb any nasties in your bowel (they actually soak up everything so drink plenty of water – I didn’t and got constipated). Lucky I also have a natural remedy for when you are constipated – a cup of herbal Alpine tea. After 3-4 hours you will definitely go – quite violently sometimes, but it absolutely clears you out. I wish the description on the packet had been a bit more honest – I took it when I was working in town once. I had a cup thinking it was an innocent herbal tea and got quite a shock when I walked home to the train station.

Audio books. For those terrifying night shifts when you can’t read or concentrate, listening to audio books is a really nice half-distraction. I only put one ear plug in so I could still listen to the weather and sea scream, waiting for any kind of different noise in. I subscribed to Audible. It’s $15 a month. The books take ages to download (do it before you leave because there’s no way internet in the Pacific can handle it). My favourite Audio Book is The Girl on the Train by Paula Hawkins. It’s not rocket science – plot drive with vivid characters and is a bit of thriller – and best of all, the actors are British.

Hair stuff. I looked about 10 years old but a hair band keeps your hair out of your face without having to use lots of hairclips. I bought some really expensive morocco oil hair moisturiser which I used every other day – just slip a bit through, like gel. It keeps it hydrated and even when I knew it looked like shite, it smelt yummy. Your hairdresser will be very impressed when you get back.

A groovy dress. On the odd occasion when we went to a resort, I’m really glad I had a nice frock to wear. I hate the term ‘grotty yachtie’ and tried hard to not be one. Of course you are one after five day passage without  a shower but there’s no need to look yucky just because you’re at sea. It is of course quite helpful to not look in the mirror though. OMG that first shower when you reach land is so unbelievably amazing.

LED candles. They look fake but give a bit of glamour. We have three in a set of different heights. They alternate different colors and have a remote control. They’re lovely it the cockpit at night. We had three but traded one for fish. And we also put fairy lights up in the cockpit which Dean did reluctantly until he saw how well they lit us up from a distance. If you forget to put your anchor light on, you still light up like a Christmas tree. It was quite a magical moment, rowing out in the dinghy and looking back at our stary night, gorgeous boat. They’re solar powered and hook up to our dodger. It’s also part of my cunning plan to make sure we don’t race our boat in the next Mana Cruising Club winter sailing season – the fairy lights will take too long to take down! Woop, woop.

A box of gorgeous things. Sailing is all about safety and trauma. As soon as I got to a bay I’d open out my box of gorgeous things and lay them out on the saloon table…a plastic lotus flower, a shell from Kapiti, half a coconut shell and a miniature crocheted Christmas pudding that my Mum won in the hospice raffle. This is a bit macabre, but I also have a Dead Box. It’s got funeral programmes, dried flowers, photos, notes and little things that remind me of the person who died. I also have the ashes of my little pussy cat, Willow, in my Dead Box. Dean thinks I’m weird. But being at sea doesn’t mean I don’t have feelings. There’s nothing like a good sob after a shit sail.

A shift bag. I had a large waist bag that I put all my shift essentials in (ear plugs, eye mask, clean knickers, alarm clock, gloves, note pad and pen). I attached it to the nav station so that even if it was rough, I could get to it easy. It was right next to the Grab Bag.

Okay, so I’ve asked Dean what he’d never go to sea without – he’ll be practical:

Three navigation tools. Ray Marine charts as our main nav tool, in the cockpit, and Open CPN and iSailor for our laptop and iPad. Dean also connected our chart plotter to the iPad. He blew up our radar two weeks before we left. Our amazing marine insurance people, The Marina Shop, made sure our insurance covered it and it meant we got new charts for the Pacific. Unlike some people, reefs were where they were meant to be.

Solar panels. As many as you can take.

Davits on our arch. Being able to hoist our dinghy up on davits which are attached to our arch: Not only was it easy when we got somewhere, but the dinghy was perfectly safe, still inflated, during passages. We were one of the only boats with an inflatable dingy and we never got into trouble. Dean had Outboard Envy. Ours has 5hp – a lot had 15hp. 10hp was common. Dean was obsessed with ‘getting on the plane’. I don’t see what the fuss is about. We got to places, eventually.

Soda Stream for fizzy drinks. He can’t live without his bourbon and coke. Except I bought sugar-free which he HATED and never forgave me for. Telling him that the amount of sugar that goes in a glass of coke is actually poisonous, and to stop you throwing up they put another poison in, doesn’t put him off.

Iridium Go satellite communications (includes an email address so we could email anywhere, any time, and 150 talking minutes). Apparently they’ll have 3G internet speed too soon. Iridium Go also has a tracking feature that Predict Wind can show on a website. This was great except for when it went a bit haywire and we got an email from Dean’s Mum saying, “you’re on land, you’re on land, what’s wrong?”

AIS. We wouldn’t go anywhere without it. It saved our lives: Once we were headed right for a rock. We had our chart zoomed out to 10nm which meant the rock didn’t show. The rock had an AIS beacon on and came up as an alert. It was a revolting night shift and our headsail had just ripped so we were in no mood to hit a rock. We should of course have scanned a paper chart more thoroughly before we left.  AIS is great for piece of mind for general collision avoidance too. It’s also handy if you want to avoid  someone in a bay, and you can turn it off if you don’t want to be found.

A good horn to announce your arrival in a bay and say a big goodbye when you leave. Oh for safety reasons too.

What are three things you’d never go to sea without?

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And cushions. I can’t buy furniture, art work, books, art deco things – we only have room for cushions. My new cockpit cushions have ducks on them. I love them. Dean doesn’t.

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Nothing to do this this post, but my current favourite photo. This is the first time Zena went up on the deck, unprompted. Taken from our trip a couple of weeks ago to D’Urville Island and Pelorous Sound.

 

Last day in Tonga (and going to church)

The last day of Tonga and I went to church in Neiafu. It was in Tongan but I didn’t care – the singing was very moving. Although most of the people there had nothing, they looked pristine and beautiful in their church clothes, especially the kids.

But after ten minutes or so the kids got sticky and bored in their polyester dresses and buttoned up shirts. One boy in front of me found a piece of sticky tape and did different things with it – over his eye like a pirate; over his lips then tried to stretch a smile; on his cheek, up his nose – until he got an almighty whack from the older woman sitting next to him.

The next service I went to was Vanua Levu in Fiji. The Minister kindly did the service in English and Fijian which made it two hours long.

Luckily no one has asked me what my religion I follow. I’m still not sure what I’d say because I don’t want to lie but I also don’t want to tell anyone I’m only there for singing. I don’t think I’ll go again – it’s a bit disingenuous.

But watching people being devoted to something is so beautiful.

Down the road from the church is a monastery. It looked kind of run down. I wanted to go in and be nosy but then I would of been late for church!

Down the road from the church is a monastery. It rustically run down. I wanted to go in and be nosy but then I would of been late for church!

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The town of Neiafu is such a contrast to the affluent harbour.

This lovely young woman in the duty free alcohol shop thinks Tongan boys are cheeky and drunk. She wants to meet a nice Maori boy from New Zealand. I asked her if us Palangi look silly walking around town in our clothes, cameras and caps. She giggled and said, "Yes".

This lovely young woman in the duty free alcohol shop thinks Tongan boys are cheeky and drunk. She wants to meet a nice Maori boy from New Zealand. I asked her if us Palangi look silly walking around town. She giggled and said, “Yes”.

Dean had his first taste of Tongan white bread here. It was the fluffiest bread he'd ever eaten.

Dean had his first taste of Tongan white bread here. It was the fluffiest bread he’d ever eaten.

Still can't find a good reason why most people treat their dogs so appallingly. There's a volunteer vet here who goes around desexing, worming and defleaing dogs, but her work is like one flea in a haystack.

Still can’t find a good reason why most people treat their dogs so appallingly. There’s a volunteer vet here who goes around desexing, worming and defleaing dogs, but her work is like one flea amongst trillions.

Cool colors.

Cool colors.

Vege markets at Neiafu. Best passionfruit I've ever had. When I get back to the boat with fresh food I rinse in salt water to get bugs off, then in fresh water to get unhelpful bacteria off. Apparently one year all the boats shared the same salad and all got giardia.

Vege markets at Neiafu. Best passionfruit I’ve ever had. When I get back to the boat with fresh food I rinse in salt water to get bugs off, then in fresh water to get unhelpful bacteria off. Apparently one year all the boats shared the same salad and all got giardia.

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Watching Mummy whales give birth to bubby whales is the main tourist attraction here.

NB: We left Tonga 8 June but have only just got internet!

Ha’api Islands in Tonga (and nearly a Ghost story)

Short of telling you a ghost story, I’m going to tell you the story of this shell.

The third of our stops in the Ha’api Group of Islands was Uonukuhahaki. It’s about 500 metres long and 200 metres wide and has two resident cows and many, many mad crabs that fly across the sand. I saw this beautiful shell and took it back to the boat, wondering if I’d have enough guts to take it home. It felt wrong to do so but it was so stunning and I imagined it back in New Zealand and how it would evoke our holiday in a flash.

That night we had Adventure Couple over for drinkes. Peter told us the story of how his mother had found a shell in Rarotonga and bought it back to Palmerston North with her. Spooky things started to happen. The cat would eat in a hurry then run out of the house; there was a smell of smoke and a feeling of someone in their bedroom at night. It wasn’t a happy house.

They weren’t spiritual people at all but after a year of unease they called in a kind of exorcist. To cut a long story short, the exorcist (on his second visit) said they had to send the shell back. They did. Or rather, they put it in a box and posted it to ‘Rarotonga’. Did it get there?

So the next day I took my lovely shell back to the same spot, amongst the fishing boat and tourist rubbish. I spoke some ceremonial words and walked away. My head doesn’t believe in stuff like that but my imagination does.

We then went to a sad little island called Ha’afeva. The dogs weren’t just skinny, they were starving and dying. I had a hard time feeling warmth towards the locals. I know it’s judgemental but no one can give me a worthwhile explanation. Got one?

Us Palangi walk around pronouncing ‘Malo e  lei lei’ badly; we take soccer balls and teach dumb songs to the village schools and we always look out of place.  This is of course is tourist-Palangi. We’ve met some others, aid workers mainly, who do some amazing stuff.  I met this awesome young woman who was born in Lifuka and educated in Auckland. She now goes round all the Tongan islands up skilling local nurses on women’s health – cervical smears, breast checks etc. Most Pacific women go the doctor too late when it comes to cancer.

I’m looking forward to spending more time in a village and changing my bad attitude instead of looking for the only shop (always run by Chinese) and feeling uncomfortable. Dean and I did sort of did it in Vietnam and Laos but still felt challenged. We can do better here. We’re cousins really.

Back to Pangai, the main town. I love it when there’s no wind. The clouds hang in 3D with nowhere to go. We’re starting to hang too, getting into the spirit of cruising. We’re trying to have no plans – very hard to do when all we’ve been doing for the past year is plan for this.

Internet is precious and hard to come by. But sometimes OK when we’re in a ‘town’ and Dean sends his phone up the mast!

I asked Dad to send us the Tino Rangatiratanga flag. Our good old NZ flag is flapping at us all the time and part of me is slightly uncomfortable with it. So we now flying the Maori flag as well. That feel’s right to me – Dean has no opinion on the matter and is doing it to make me happy. Aw.

The woman in the Post Office where we picked up the flag was wearing black and said she was in mourning because her husband had died. She had a big gap in her teeth and kept whistling when she spoke.  Thanks to her we now know how to say ‘Malo e lei lei’ properly. She was lovely and I wanted to hug her. Little steps, little steps.

Back on the boat, Dean’s been getting very annoyed with me leaving my hairclips everywhere. But now the headlines are screaming, “Boat Repaired by Hairclip”. He used one to attach the safety line on the stern. Woop woop.

Next stop is Blue Lagoon in Vava’u Group – not where Brook Sheilds shot that movie.

Love Janie and Dean on Pebbles

PS… if I did take that shell home, I’d have good material to write a novel!
PPS…still no fish. Except for a three-metre barracuda who we got to the back of the boat but couldn’t land it. It ate another lure of ours.

The colors of paradise.

The colors of paradise.

Pangai was hit by a cyclone 18 months ago. Many of the houses haven't been rebuilt and there's not a lot of food crops being grown. There's evidence of international Aid but not of progress.

Pangai was hit by a cyclone 18 months ago. Many of the houses haven’t been rebuilt and there’s not a lot of food crops being grown. There’s evidence of international Aid but not of progress.

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Clever, clever Dean fixed our watermaker. It’s caused us much stress. If you’re a cruiser and want more details, email us at pebbles@myiridium.net

 

 

My first ever banana cake making, thanks to Edmonds Cookery Book. Here you buy huge bunches of bananas and they all ripen at the same time. We've been freezing them too. Yum.

My first ever banana cake making, thanks to Dean’s Mum, Alison, and the Edmonds Cookery Book. Here you buy huge bunches of bananas and they all ripen at the same time. We’ve been freezing them too. Yum.

 

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Oh yeah baby, yum.

 

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One of the other ICA chaps wondering how the hell he’s going to get his dinghy back to the boat through the coral reefs at low tide.

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The local kids think Dean’s t-shirt is hilarious.

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Here you get lemon-lime-oranges. They come in bags of about 4-5 and you’re never really sure what you’ll get. Veges and fruit are very, very hard to come by. We don’t want to take from the little supply the locals have for themselves but we also don’t want to get scurvy! We would so love a fresh OJ right now. We’re even thinking of resorting to our Raro.

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The lovely Grace from Nika – another Bavaria 46. Her and her younger sisters Olivia and Rose are here from Australia. They are awesome adventure kids. Grace does the VHF talking, Olivia gets very seasick, and Rose is the cuddliest wee girl. They are being home schooled.

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No warrant of fitness required in Lifuka.

 

 

 

 

Tonga – our tropical paradise (and how to drink fresh coconut water)

First, plan like crazy for two years to sail to Tonga. Spend all your money and rack up all possible credit cards. When your Mum dies, don’t loose your vision – in fact, make it stronger, and do it for her too. When your partner gets a cancer scare, you both tell yourself you’ll go to Tonga, no matter what. And when he tells you that it doesn’t matter what happens because he’s doing what he’d do if he did have cancer anyway, smile. Then spend 13 days in a rocky rolly boat with three men who haven’t had a shower. Feel like shite but know surely it’s just has to get better. Take your partners hand over the cockpit table after the nightshift from hell and tell each other it’s going to be okay. Arrive in Tonga and go to the first white sandy, palm-tree lined beach you can find. Meet Crazy Craig the Coconut Man and watch him machete a coconut. Grab it with both hands and bring it to your lips. Know you’re going to get coconut juice all over your face and hands but do it anyway. Taste the sweet, clear, light liquid and know you’ll never do this for the first time again. But know that every day is going to be full of firsts, no matter what happens. Now relax, because you’re here.

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It’s a first.

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Janie, Dean, BamBam (dinghy) and Pebbles. Our first cocktail hour, Uoleva Beach, Ha’api Group, Tonga.

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Crazy Craig the Coconut Man, and our new cruising friends Kim and Peter from the catamaran, Take Two. We call them the adventure couple. Later that day (yesterday) we went to the Serenity Beach Resort and sat around a fire with some locals, singing. The lead singer’s favourite song was Stairway to Heaven! They sung Pokarekare Ana – very moving.

 This place is stunning… www.serenitybeaches.com