OMG Fiji, here we come….

We’re going, we’re going, we’re going. Can’t believe I’m going to actually do that hideous sailing trip again. Did I not learn anything the first time, about seasickness, terror, feeling stupid, out-body experiences because the reality was too much? I’ll just think of sunrises, flying fish (can’t be miserable when you see a little fish fleeing across the surface of the ocean) and opening a bottle of champagne on arrival. It can’t be as scary the second time. Can it?

When I came back from our 2015 South Pacific trip I said to Dean that I can’t return to the Pacific again unless it has some meaning other than sipping wine on the back of our boat. Well, this year I’ll be doing my Master’s in Development Studies, hanging out at the University of South Pacific in Suva and outer islands. I’ll be looking at the linkages between climate change adaptation and development.

We’ll leave some time in May, and return in November. Avoiding the cyclone season doesn’t have the same surety as it used to, thanks to human-induced climate change…but that’s for another time. For now, it’s time to head back to uni to expand and deepen the world once again, and to our excel spreadsheet with an endless list of boat things to do.

PS…Just to keep it real, I thought I’d share this photo of Dean unblocking our toilet!

Scooters, roosters and dragons – sailing Indonesia

OMG we are sailing along the North coast of Flores, East to West. We’ve joined our friends, Kim & Peter, on their boat ‘Take Two’ – our great Pacific sailing mates.

Three amazing things about sailing Indonesia, this time:

1. We flew to get here.

2. We’re mainly motoring!

3. Everything…roosters, Komodo dragons (soon to be experienced), scooters beeping, Muslim prayers mixing with our Van Morrison ‘Moon Dance’ under a full moon, remote villages with beautiful smiles, exquisite islands and snorkelling (yes, I’ve even let go of the dinghy).

Plus the usual challenges…unsustainable tourism, plastic plastic plastic, heat that feels like you’ve “eaten the sun” says Kim, crap sleeps…but that’s nothing compared to what Indonesia offers as a sailing destination.

More on anchorages and highlights later, including postcard-perfect little islands. There’s no one here. The Sail Indonesia rally has left and We’ve seen one boat in six days (apart from millions of local boats and their fishing nets – note to self, do NOT sail in Indonesia at night time.)

Now, time to negotiate a labyrinth of coral reefs.

xox

 

The one that got left behind

As I write this, Dean is on a friend’s yacht, sailing to New Caledonia. Without me! But he can’t be having adventures without me!

They asked me to join them once they got there, but apart from lack of funds, I swore I’d never be one of “those wives” who are waiting on the other side. They have a cocktail in one hand, they have lovely clean hair, and they’ve got make-up on (even in the sweaty heat).

Not going on this adventure with Dean is my bad karma for all the whinging I’ve done about not loving sailing. It’s my penance for all the swear words I’ve screamed out to sea on a night shift. I should be thankful I’m not battling six metre waves and a black, black night.

There’s no photo to go with this blog. Because it would be of me, sitting in my six metre x three metre office, with a horrible fluro light, on my own, convincing myself that the work I’m doing has meaning and importance. I’m feeling a little sorry for myself. And a little lonely without my adventure man. Not even the thought of Coronation St on TV tonight is cheering me up.

I thought I had already decided to choose adventure. I now realise that is a life time journey and I’ve only just started.  I had the opportunity to go but I let fear stand in the way. It was such an easy decision to make. Easy is so overrated.

So I’m going to make a promise to myself: Janie, from now on, you shall always choose adventure. Always.

Things I’d never go sailing without

We really didn’t know what we were doing. We Googled and forumed like crazy. We took advice from helpful people and thought really, really hard. But at the end of the day, we still felt ill prepared. Having said that, there’s not a lot we’d do differently if we were going to go on a sailing adventure again.

Here are some things we would definitely take again.

Green Bags. These are breathable plastic bags to store vegetables in and keep in the fridge. I did an experiment before we left: I brought two broccoli; one went in the fridge naked and the other went in in a Green Bag. The Green Bag one lasted three times as long. I get them from Trade Me (just put Green Bags in the search box). They’re imported from USA – NASA International Space Shuttle used to use them. You can wash them and reuse them 8-10 times – at least that’s what the instructions say – but I used them about 20.  Still good. Tip: Make sure there’s no moisture on the vege/fruit when you put them in. Or if there is, wrap a paper towel around it for a day or so.

Charcoal tablets and Alpine tea. When my Mum was dying, all the hospice nurses were obsessed with her bowels. Sailing can also be all about the bowels. For any kind of tummy bug or diarrhoea, we used charcoal tablets (thanks Peter). They absorb any nasties in your bowel (they actually soak up everything so drink plenty of water – I didn’t and got constipated). Lucky I also have a natural remedy for when you are constipated – a cup of herbal Alpine tea. After 3-4 hours you will definitely go – quite violently sometimes, but it absolutely clears you out. I wish the description on the packet had been a bit more honest – I took it when I was working in town once. I had a cup thinking it was an innocent herbal tea and got quite a shock when I walked home to the train station.

Audio books. For those terrifying night shifts when you can’t read or concentrate, listening to audio books is a really nice half-distraction. I only put one ear plug in so I could still listen to the weather and sea scream, waiting for any kind of different noise in. I subscribed to Audible. It’s $15 a month. The books take ages to download (do it before you leave because there’s no way internet in the Pacific can handle it). My favourite Audio Book is The Girl on the Train by Paula Hawkins. It’s not rocket science – plot drive with vivid characters and is a bit of thriller – and best of all, the actors are British.

Hair stuff. I looked about 10 years old but a hair band keeps your hair out of your face without having to use lots of hairclips. I bought some really expensive morocco oil hair moisturiser which I used every other day – just slip a bit through, like gel. It keeps it hydrated and even when I knew it looked like shite, it smelt yummy. Your hairdresser will be very impressed when you get back.

A groovy dress. On the odd occasion when we went to a resort, I’m really glad I had a nice frock to wear. I hate the term ‘grotty yachtie’ and tried hard to not be one. Of course you are one after five day passage without  a shower but there’s no need to look yucky just because you’re at sea. It is of course quite helpful to not look in the mirror though. OMG that first shower when you reach land is so unbelievably amazing.

LED candles. They look fake but give a bit of glamour. We have three in a set of different heights. They alternate different colors and have a remote control. They’re lovely it the cockpit at night. We had three but traded one for fish. And we also put fairy lights up in the cockpit which Dean did reluctantly until he saw how well they lit us up from a distance. If you forget to put your anchor light on, you still light up like a Christmas tree. It was quite a magical moment, rowing out in the dinghy and looking back at our stary night, gorgeous boat. They’re solar powered and hook up to our dodger. It’s also part of my cunning plan to make sure we don’t race our boat in the next Mana Cruising Club winter sailing season – the fairy lights will take too long to take down! Woop, woop.

A box of gorgeous things. Sailing is all about safety and trauma. As soon as I got to a bay I’d open out my box of gorgeous things and lay them out on the saloon table…a plastic lotus flower, a shell from Kapiti, half a coconut shell and a miniature crocheted Christmas pudding that my Mum won in the hospice raffle. This is a bit macabre, but I also have a Dead Box. It’s got funeral programmes, dried flowers, photos, notes and little things that remind me of the person who died. I also have the ashes of my little pussy cat, Willow, in my Dead Box. Dean thinks I’m weird. But being at sea doesn’t mean I don’t have feelings. There’s nothing like a good sob after a shit sail.

A shift bag. I had a large waist bag that I put all my shift essentials in (ear plugs, eye mask, clean knickers, alarm clock, gloves, note pad and pen). I attached it to the nav station so that even if it was rough, I could get to it easy. It was right next to the Grab Bag.

Okay, so I’ve asked Dean what he’d never go to sea without – he’ll be practical:

Three navigation tools. Ray Marine charts as our main nav tool, in the cockpit, and Open CPN and iSailor for our laptop and iPad. Dean also connected our chart plotter to the iPad. He blew up our radar two weeks before we left. Our amazing marine insurance people, The Marina Shop, made sure our insurance covered it and it meant we got new charts for the Pacific. Unlike some people, reefs were where they were meant to be.

Solar panels. As many as you can take.

Davits on our arch. Being able to hoist our dinghy up on davits which are attached to our arch: Not only was it easy when we got somewhere, but the dinghy was perfectly safe, still inflated, during passages. We were one of the only boats with an inflatable dingy and we never got into trouble. Dean had Outboard Envy. Ours has 5hp – a lot had 15hp. 10hp was common. Dean was obsessed with ‘getting on the plane’. I don’t see what the fuss is about. We got to places, eventually.

Soda Stream for fizzy drinks. He can’t live without his bourbon and coke. Except I bought sugar-free which he HATED and never forgave me for. Telling him that the amount of sugar that goes in a glass of coke is actually poisonous, and to stop you throwing up they put another poison in, doesn’t put him off.

Iridium Go satellite communications (includes an email address so we could email anywhere, any time, and 150 talking minutes). Apparently they’ll have 3G internet speed too soon. Iridium Go also has a tracking feature that Predict Wind can show on a website. This was great except for when it went a bit haywire and we got an email from Dean’s Mum saying, “you’re on land, you’re on land, what’s wrong?”

AIS. We wouldn’t go anywhere without it. It saved our lives: Once we were headed right for a rock. We had our chart zoomed out to 10nm which meant the rock didn’t show. The rock had an AIS beacon on and came up as an alert. It was a revolting night shift and our headsail had just ripped so we were in no mood to hit a rock. We should of course have scanned a paper chart more thoroughly before we left.  AIS is great for piece of mind for general collision avoidance too. It’s also handy if you want to avoid  someone in a bay, and you can turn it off if you don’t want to be found.

A good horn to announce your arrival in a bay and say a big goodbye when you leave. Oh for safety reasons too.

What are three things you’d never go to sea without?

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And cushions. I can’t buy furniture, art work, books, art deco things – we only have room for cushions. My new cockpit cushions have ducks on them. I love them. Dean doesn’t.

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Nothing to do this this post, but my current favourite photo. This is the first time Zena went up on the deck, unprompted. Taken from our trip a couple of weeks ago to D’Urville Island and Pelorous Sound.

 

We’re home (and my love affair with the sea)

Over 7,000 nautical miles, five countries in seven months, way more diesel than we thought, four different kinds of sea sickness tablets, incredible experiences and a potential love affair with the sea – and we are home.

After a three and a half day sail from Opua, down the West Coast of New Zealand, we’re back in our berth at Mana Marina. Kyle, Dean’s brother, joined us for this last leg and he was wonderful to have on board. Having a crew member that you already care about and who knows you is fabulous.

Being home is very surreal. Suddenly we are familiar. I’m trying to do useful things like clean out the snacks containers and sort out work, but sleep deprivation from night shifts and adrenaline is quite a drug.

We had a gorgeous welcome party with family – thank you so much everyone – you’ve made coming home very special. And of course we are reunited with the biggest love affair of all – our doggie, Zena.

So now what? While we were away we had plans. We were going to pay off debt and save like crazy then go away again in 2017, visit fewer countries, spend more time in villages and get beyond touristy visits. Dean is dead keen. I’m not sure.

Why the hell would I want to bob around again in a furious ocean in a little plastic boat with the wind screaming at me?

I really thought this affair would have developed. I’ve learnt more about sailing but not enough to overcome fear.

Our trip down from Opua was lovely at first (I almost enjoyed little bits of it) and then we came around from the Taranaki nob and the southerly hit. It was three metre swells, 25 knots on the nose and all early romance over. I didn’t drink enough water because going to the loo was too traumatising.  I was rude. I left my body and expected to die. There were dolphins and I didn’t care.

We’ve met cruisers who have been at sea for 35 years. They’re sure, they can fish, they know all the knots. Maybe they expect to die at some point but they are madly in love with the lifestyle.

I get the freedom side of it and all the amazing things about travel. But, for me, cruising is ultimately self indulgent. If I do it again I will need to find a way to make it mean more.

But, as I walked down the pier towards our boat today, I felt happy. Not just the absence of stress and sadness, but something like happiness. Perhaps I do have a potential new love.

I’m going to post some geeky-boat things over the next while about how we prepared for the trip, what clothes were useless, hair tips and our favourite bays, as well as my neurotic thoughts on this whole sailing is scary thing. So I won’t be offended if you’re not into that, and want to unsubscribe. But I hope you’ll stay connected and share my posts.

PS. So far, the best seasickness tables are Phenergan 10mg – no side effects and no spewing.

PPS. Things I miss already: getting in the dinghy and venturing up a river; turtles; being friendly and that not scaring people off; not knowing what’s going to happen in the next hour.

 

Our first sight of NZ. Very emotional.

 

And bloody cold.

 

My lovely new friend, Gail from Puponga. When we left in May she gave me a pounamu koru necklace to keep me safe. She was one of the first hugs I got when we first got back. Happy adventures Gail.

My lovely new friend, Gail from Puponga. When we left in May she gave me a pounamu koru necklace to keep me safe. I knew she was fabulous when the Opua Cruising Club were busy one night so she went into the kitchen and helped out doing the dishes. Gail was one of the first hugs when we got back. This was Gail’s first ever selfie. Happy adventures Gail.

 

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A staph infection or bite within an hour of getting back to NZ! Dean watched Stargate episodes on the boat for a week while I ventured around Opua and Kerikeri. 

 

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I called him Fat Foot for a few days.

 

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Russell. We loved the Bay of Islands and almost stayed. Dean got offered work at one of the charter companies. But the fantasy didn’t last too long (although one more sign from the universe and we could of stayed).

 

Summer Bay, Urupukapuka Island - as beautiful as anywhere in the Pacific.

Summer Bay, Urupukapuka Island – as beautiful as anywhere in the Pacific.

 

My lovely Dad joined us for a very special weekend.

My lovely Dad joined us for a very special weekend.

 

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From Paradise Bay looking out at Moturoa Island. Sigh.

 

A very big snapper and an even bigger red thing that we didn't eat.

A big snapper and an even bigger red thing that we didn’t eat.

 

Another bad, bad fringe cut.

Another bad, bad fringe cut.

 

Sailing us

On our way down the West Coast after three night shifts, looking like crap.

 

I've done my share of 360 turns at night. Our auto-pilot turns off at random and unless you know the compass heading straight away, it can take ages to get the boat back in the right direction - until I started to write the heading above the chart plotter. So proud of myself for coming up with something practical (other than righty-tighty, lefty-loosey!)

I’ve done my share of 360 turns at night. Our auto-pilot turns off at random and unless you know the compass heading straight away, it can take ages to get the boat back in the right direction – until I started to write the heading above the chart plotter. So proud of myself for coming up with something practical.

 

Back home, walking Zena in Pauatahanui Inlet. Long may this last.

Back home, walking Zena in Pauatahanui Inlet. Long may this wonderful feeling last. Thank you to the Coffeey-Beans for looking after Zena so well. She’s very happy and healthy and obviously loved. Come visit anytime. Woof.

 

 

 

 

 

Our last blog from the South Pacific (really?)

Seven months, six things lost overboard, five countries, four fish, three crew heading home, two bars of chocolate and one big adventure nearly over.

We head for home tomorrow. First stop, Norfolk Island.

Mum used to be worried that we’d get lost on the way home and end up in the Pitcairn islands. One of her hospice nurses was from there. I think our three GPS systems will work okay.

It’s a mix of emotions coming home. There’s some sadness at leaving the people we’ve got to know; some regret (did we make the most of it?); some fear about the passage home (for me); some anxiety about returning to our old lives (shouldn’t they  be different after all this?) but really, really wanting to see family and friends again; and amazement that we’ve actually done it.

I asked Dean how he was feeling about coming home: “I don’t want to go but I want to get out of this crap weather we’re having”.

He’s cleaning out the diesel leak in one of the cabins; Colin, our crew, is doing the dishes; I’m writing this last blog and trying not to ball my eyes out.

It’s been so exciting. But adventure is exhausting. I think we’ll come home for a holiday.

We’ll be back in Mana anywhere from 2nd or 3rd of November, to the 10th. It depends on where we clear into. Ideally we’ll go to Wellington then skip up to Mana, but we may need to go to Opua, wait for a weather window, then head down to Wellington. Clearing into Nelson is also a possibility.

We’ll be doing three hours on, six hours off. We’re cross three weather systems so anything could happen, but it’s looking pretty good. There are lows about Fiji and other stuff too. Everyone is saying tomorrow is the best day to go – the experts, the grib files and the obsessive weather talk from other yachties.

Thank you to everyone for your lovely posts and emails. We’ll let you know where/when we sail in so you can have hot chips, champagne, chocolate and fresh lettuce waiting for us. And Zena!

Our lovely new friends, Hamish and Steve who live in New Caledonia. Thanks to Rose for putting us in touch with eachother. They came on Pebbles for the weekend and we loved them. Especially their black lab/collie Jack! We wuv you Jack, big snuggles, smooches and ear rubs to you. Your black hair will forever be on Pebbles!

Our lovely new friends, Hamish and Steve who live in Noumea. Thanks to Rose for putting us in touch with each other. They stayed on Pebbles for the weekend and we loved them. Especially their black lab/collie Jack! We wuv you Jack, big snuggles, smooches and ear rubs to you. Your black hair will forever be on Pebbles!

 

Car park sign in one of the supermarkets in Noumea. We wanted to color one of them in pink and one black.

Car park sign in one of the supermarkets in Noumea. We wanted to color the boy in pink and the girl in black.

 

Bay Maa just north of Noumea. It's a gated community, kind of like a French beachside ghetto. Some German jumped ship a hundred years ago, swam to shore and started a new life. His descendants have their holiday homes there. They're quite cute, kind of like pretty French ghetto shacks.

Bay Maa just north of Noumea. It’s a strange gated community – some German jumped ship a hundred years ago, swam to shore and started a new life. His descendants have their holiday homes here. The bachs’ are quite cute, kind of like pretty French ghetto shacks, not that we were meant to be wondering around. The wind here was violent and gusty.

 

We found a huge shipwreck. I then touched a cute bunch of catus' and got many little prickles in my fingers. Dean had to operate.

We found a huge shipwreck. I then touched a cute bunch of catus’ and got many little prickles in my fingers. Dean had to operate.

 

I can't find the photo of Dean standing with his finger up the pirate's nose.

I can’t find the photo of Dean standing here with his finger up the pirate’s nose.

 

Every rock, plant, shell, view, swim and day has been so different.

Every rock, plant, shell, view, swim and day has been so different.

 

 

Two of the gorgeous adventure family girls. We've seen them grow up over the past six months We'll miss them.

Two of the gorgeous adventure family girls. We’ve seen them grow up over the past six months We’ll miss them.

 

Watching the All Blacks quarter-final against France, in a French pub. The French people there went from raucous to very, very quiet.

Watching the All Blacks quarter-final against France, in a French pub. The French people there went from raucous to very, very quiet.

 

Bacon and eggs, French style...haricot beans with loads of garlic, cream in the scrambled eggs, and sausages with thyme onions. We have no idea how much this cost - we can't read the menu or understand the answer when we ask anyway.

Bacon and eggs, French style…haricot beans with loads of garlic, cream in the scrambled eggs, and sausages with thyme onions. We have no idea how much this cost – we can’t read the menu or understand the answer when we ask anyway. It is so interesting that most of the French people don’t speak English. We met one woman who basically screamed at us to learn French. Charming.

 

Now trick now will be to keep a sense of adventure and exploring when we get home. A new walk with doggie, learn a new language, say hello to more people, be nicer. Surely you can't go through something like that and go back to the same thing?

The trick now will be to keep a sense of adventure and exploration when we get home. A new walk with doggie, learn a new language, say hello to more people, be nicer. Surely you can’t go through something like this and go back to the same thing?

 

 

New Caledonia in October – glitter cardy cold & celiac sharks

It’s colder here – but only glitter cardy cold, as my friend Caroline says, and not proper NZ thermal cold. Her and her partner, Steve, joined us for a week and she’s bought a bit of glamour to the boat. Dean and I even had a shower.

Only a week to go. That’s insane. We want to come home now, but we also want the world to stay changed.

Our fancy new lure that got eaten by a fancy big fish.

Our fancy new lure that got eaten by a fancy big fish.

A dinghy trip up the river in Baie de Uie that ended up being a highlight. It looked dumb to start with.

A dinghy trip up the river in Baie de Uie that ended up being a highlight. It looked dumb to start with.

Drying our parachute because the sail locker got drenched.

Drying our parachute because the sail locker got drenched.

Meet Mouss. He has his own Facebook page. He's the only living being on Isle de Casey in Baie de Prony. Ten years ago his owners' resort on the island closed down. They tried to take him with them but he kept jumping off the boat and swimming back to the island. Mouss goes fishing and is fed by visiting yachts. One even rigged up a water catcher for him. He seems very happy. He had pasta and egg for breakfast, care of Pebbles.

Meet Moose, the caretaker of Ilot Casey in Baie de Prony. Ten years ago his owners closed down the resort on the island. They tried to take him with them but he kept jumping off the boat and swimming back to the island, so they left him there. Moose goes fishing for himself and is fed by visiting yachts. One even rigged up a water catcher for him. He seems okay. Moose had pasta and egg for breakfast, care of Pebbles.

Dean, with the help of Take Two, made my birthday very special.

Dean, with the help of Take Two, made my birthday very special.

This included going to Blue River National Park and sleeping in tents in trees! And going on a moonlit kayak tour with H2o Odyssee Tours. Both incredible, amazing things to do. Kind of ironic though - we leave the boat for two days to swing in trees and go on water.

This included going to Blue River National Park and sleeping in tents in trees! And going on a moonlit kayak tour with H2o Odyssee Tours. Both incredible, amazing things to do. Kind of ironic though – we leave the boat for two days to swing in trees and go on water.

We really have no idea where we go most of the time.

We really have no idea where we go most of the time.

Then it was off to Isle de Pines in the south. Picture perfect.

Then it was off to Isle de Pines in the south. Picture perfect.

Complete with old jail, where "the massive exile on Isle of Pines of simple offenders answered two major idea - bame those who tried to overtake the French Government power..."

Complete with old jail, where “the massive exile on Isle of Pines of simple offenders answered two major idea – bame those who tried to overtake the French Government power and endorse the sum of money being spent by the French to build the island…”

The local markets included a selection of French pastries and things...Dean chose one of each. Best breakfast we've ever had.

The local markets at Vao included a selection of French pastries and things…Dean chose one of each. Best breakfast we’ve ever had.

Joined by Wellington friends, Caroline and Stephen - great cruising guests because they did all the dishes.

Joined by Wellington friends, Caroline and Stephen – great cruising guests because they did all the dishes.

One good thing about the French being here. They build nice things.

One good thing about the French being here is that they build nice things. 

The confession booth is a broom cupboard.

The confession booth is a broom cupboard.

A favourite morning thing...feeding baby sharks. They cling to the bottom of your boat and come out when we throw bread in. I've stopped doing this now because we're leaving a trail of celiac sharks.

A favourite morning thing…feeding baby sharks. They cling to the bottom of your boat and come out when we throw bread in. I’ve stopped doing this now because we’re leaving a trail of celiac sharks.

View from Mato Island in the southern lagoon area. It was very windy and quite a risk to navigate the reef systems (and the first time we'd anchored on a lee shore), but worth the fear.

View from Mato Island in the southern lagoon area. It was very windy and quite a risk to navigate the reef systems (and the first time we’d anchored on a lee shore), but worth the fear.

Adventurers.

Adventurers.