Savusavu (and how ugly is interesting)

We love exploring the land too. Here’s a video of Savusavu, the main town in Vanua Levu, Central Fiji. Very cool place.

You can get everything here and the markets and great.  There we bought plantain bananas, a kind of white radish, cassava (cassava chips are yum) and a cucumber/apple thing (bitter and floury). My cooking experiments don’t always work. Dean’s very polite.

We were in Savusavu twice. The first time for four days and then we had to come back because on our way to Makogai Island our engine conked out. At first we thought it was a bug in the fuel and we were looking at ‘polishing’ the fuel, or getting rid of it. But on second advice we decided it was water in the fuel tank. After oil filter changes it’s coming right (or so we thought – more later).

The first local we asked for advice from said we had to chuck it and offered to find some containers so he could take it back home with him. The second advice from an old cruiser said to bomb the shit out of it with biocide to kill any fuel bugs that can breed from water in the fuel.

While we were in Savusavu we took a two-hour local bus trip to the more Indian inland town of Labasa. The scenery was incredible – very NZ-National-Park like, with coconuts. It was almost like driving through another country than the Fiji we’d seen before.  Just out of  the city we saw a football field with cows in.

Labasa is probably the ugliest town we’ve ever been to. But the Indian flavour was cool and worth the day trip.

Our bus driver was hilarious – I’ve never seen anyone preen themselves so much while driving. He applied Nivea to his hands, arms, neck and face, twice; used lip cream; cleaned his fingernails; de-waxed his ears and picked his nose into a flannel, many, many times. I’m sure he knew we could all see him through the rear vision mirror.

He also seemed to have a monopoly on food: When we passed through settlements, someone would pass him food through his window. But we never saw him eat.

His cellphone rang all the time. The ring tone was Ride of the Valkyries.

Dum de da dum….

This cool supermarket sold Marmite and Yo Plus.

This cool supermarket in Savusavu sold Marmite and Yo Plus.

And cheese! This cost $48.

And cheese! This cost $48. Dean could be  adapting to local food better.

This is the ugliest restaurant but very cheap. Fish and chips $5 and very fresh ad yum.

This is the ugliest restaurant (at Waitui Marina)  but very cheap. The tables are arranged as if they are in storage. Fish and chips $5 and very fresh and yum. We also found scrumptious Indian curry at the Indian Restaurant across the road from this place. $7 a curry with dahl, chutney, roti etc. Very authentic. Unhappy waitress. The Thai curry was awful.

 

God I hope no one votes for the ones with sails on.

God I hope no one votes for the ones with sails on.

 

Kim and I went for a massage here. It was the best massage I've ever had. Una was 'trained' by her grandmother - she's more like a healer. If you're in Savusavu, you can contact Una on the notice board next to the Cobra Shed Marina. Take insect repellent.

Kim and I went for a massage here. It was the best massage I’ve ever had. Una was ‘trained’ by her grandmother who was a healer. If you’re in Savusavu, you can contact Una on the notice board next to the Cobra Shed Marina. Someone has covered the bottom part of her ad with a poster for $150 moonlight cruises. Take insect repellent.

 

Self portrait, waiting for Kim to have her massage. Una took me into her home to wait. Every teeny thing was interesting.

Self portrait, waiting for Kim to have her massage. Una took me into her home to wait. Every teeny thing was interesting.

 

Then wandered around Una’s house, taking photos. Got eaten by mossies.

 

Up-nose-cam at Chinese Restaurant. Toilet out the back was the worse toilet I've ever been in.

Up-nose-cam at Chinese Restaurant. Toilet out the back was pretty bad. There was no light.

 

More up-nose-cam.

More up-nose-cam.

 

You can't see the flannel in this shot.

You can’t see the flannel in this shot.

 

An ugly town but so very interesting. Dean's looking for a shop that sells a 12 volt charger thingie; I'm looking for an Indian spice shop with Bollywood music blaring out. I found a packet of curry spice in the supermarket..

Labasa, an ugly town but so very interesting. Dean’s looking for a shop that sells a 12 volt charger thingie; I’m looking for an Indian spice shop with Bollywood music blaring out. I found a packet of curry spice in the supermarket..

 

According to the tourist brochures, the 'real' Fiji must include a palm tree and a white sandy beach.

Indo-Fijians make up nearly half the population in Fiji. Most come from indentured labour ancestry. We asked a young woman whether we should say, ‘Namaste’ or ‘Bula’. She said quite staunchly, ‘Bula – we are Fijian’. Then I asked her what language she speaks at home. She said, ‘Indian’.

 

Color in ugly.

Color in ugly.

 

We found this temple in the backstreets of Labasa. The priests were very friendly and showed us around. We made a donation. Made a gorgeous change from ugly.

We found the Hindu Naag Patthar Mandir (Snake Temple)  in the backstreets of Labasa. The monks were very friendly and showed us around. We made a donation.

 

Labasa markets, right by the bus stop where the bus drivers scraggle to get to the front of the line. Eggplant, lots of cabbage, cassava, bok choy, beans, chillies and heaps of bananas.

Labasa markets, right by the bus stop where the bus drivers scraggle to get to the front of the line. Eggplant, lots of cabbage, cassava, bok choy, beans, chillies and heaps of bananas.

 

This just looks wrong.

This just looks wrong.

 

Lots of bubby Zenas! We saw a few people walking round town with these boxes. They weren't being very gentle.

Lots of bubby Zenas! We saw a few people walking round town with these boxes. They weren’t being very gentle.

 

Back in Savusave. Fuel fixed, we hope, and setting sail for the 'real' Fiji (palm trees and white sandy beaches). We love the other 'real' Fiji.

Back in Savusavu. Fuel problem fixed, so we though, and setting sail for the ‘real’ Fiji (palm trees and white sandy beaches). We love the other ‘real’ Fiji.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7 thoughts on “Savusavu (and how ugly is interesting)

  1. Corrin Miller says:
    Corrin Miller's avatar

    Hi guys,

    All sounds good. Zena is with us for the next few days. She was very excited to see Lindsey and me pick her up J She’s very content and happy and curled up resting at my feet.

    Lots of love Corrin, Zena and Tui…not the cats though, they don’t care J

    xxx

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  2. kerryporter2 says:
    kerryporter2's avatar

    HI JANIE & DEAN, We loved your Savu Savu “sailing is not scary. You two really are having an interesting experience and something you’ll remember for a long time. Hey did you get your fuel problem sorted – hope so!!
    ALL THE BEST & LOOK FORWARD TO YOUR NEXT REPORT.
    LOVE COLLEEN AND DAD.

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  3. Sailing is Not Scary says:
    Sailing is Not Scary's avatar

    Hi there. We thought we’d sorted out the fuel problem. But yesterday as we motor sailed into Blue Lagoon the engine conked out again, just as we were coming through the reef. Very intense moment. But it started again. So we’ve still got some kind of problem. Dean says the diesel looks clear now so we are baffled. He’s just spent a couple of hours helping yet another boat – this time with their outboard. Such a clever son you have. Bye.

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  4. Jan says:
    Jan's avatar

    Love your commentary. Hope you get the motor sorted and soon! Nothing like a bit of scary excitement to let you know you are alive. From bitterly cold Wellington. ( although the snow on the surrounding hills is beautiful) Enjoy 🙂

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