Fiji, Fiji, Fiji, Fiji.  I’m insanely in love.

We lasted only a few days in Suva Harbour, having our little bumper boat party in 50 knots. This was NOT a good place to anchor. We managed to escape the carnage very, very fluky and luckily. We then found a beautiful piece of loveliness just around the corner to call our home for two months. Here we felt a bit like locals as we met our sea and land neighbours. We began to the get to know the markets and shops at Lami Town, the water police (who Dean bought sausage rolls and cream buns for one morning) and folks at the Royal Suva Yacht Club. And some lovely ex-pat Australian’s have lent us their cars, dogs, houses, dinghies and time. Vinaka. Friendship is different here. 

Dean is well loved there, passing on his awesome sailing skills to the young sailors. And I am completely in awe of his support of me with my study this year. How lucky and I. Apart from a quick weekend at Lawaki Beach House on Beqa Island (just 4.5 hours away – that’s 4.5 seasick hours for me, and 4.5 “yay we’re sailing” for Dean.

After nearly two months in Suva, last Saturday we sailed to Leleuvia Island, 7.5 hours to the East of Viti Levu. It’s a little tricky getting in through the reefs and bombies, but the staff at Leleuvia Resort came out to guide us in. This is a gorgeous teeny island, only 400m long, and totally stunning. They are yachty friendly – we went in and became part of the place, and ate lunch and dinner there once. We got some doggie-cuddles in there too.

Yesterday we motor sailed for 2.5 hours, through the Moturiki channel, past Moturiki Island, to Ovalau, where we will be for the next month. The little mixed-past town of Levuka is one of the most unique places I think I’ve been: UNESCO buildings, a massive tuna factory, beautiful Church, $10 fabulous curry meals, a Climate Change Park (more on that later!) and a sense of friendliness and welcoming that is unique to Fiji. It’s not over-the-top, just quietly genuine and open.

My research is taking interesting turns, from ending up at a global climate change conference with some big wigs, to understanding the layers under the impacts of climate change felt by ordinary people. Yes, people are devastatedly affected by the effects of climate change (disproportionately – they haven’t caused the human-induced effects but bear the brunt), but this ‘intervention’ from the West (Global North) just has to be different than years of development that have been forced on the Pacific from outside. Okay, enough! Except to say that I’ve met some incredible people on the ground, working at the community level, mainly in  non-Government organisations (NGOs) who deserve as much if not more support than the building of seawalls. I’ve realised that instead of buying school books for schools etc.  it’s way better to support the NGOs who are already doing the work (and often not paid for it). They not only know the people affected, they ARE the people affected and they know how things work in Fiji.

Being based at The University of the South Pacific has been really rewarding – some lifelong friends made here. Vinaka vakalevu to that incredible place and people.

I’ll let the photos do the rest of the talking – I’m too jumbled in research to say anymore. I hope you are all staying warm if you’re in New Zealand and enjoying some of that stunning winter light. Ahoy to our family and friends. And to the whanau at the Mana Cruising Club – we miss you. Time is flashing by so we’ll see you soon. In September, after Ovalau, we got to Gau Island for a month. Dean will then sail back to New Zealand with Pete (his brother-in-law, yay) and Phil, our new crew member – yay. I’ll come back to Suva for October, and fly back to NZ at the end of October. Oh wow, I get to stay in a house for a month. Hope it has a doggie. Take care everyone.

Each photo has a caption.

Fiji’s president in Levuka to welcome us. Not really. Here to open the PAFCO cool store.

Levuka. Can’t wait to get to know this place.

Our break for a few days.

You can walk around the island at low tide.

The root systems of coconut trees could probably take up an entire thesis

I got to wear my spotty sundress at the resort! Totally over dressed, but hey.

Yep.

New mural at the front of the Oceania Centre for Arts, Culture and Pacific Studies at USP, founded by Epeli Hau’ofa. If you ever want an understanding of the Pacific, read his essay “Our Sea of Islands”

A hangout place at USP.

Dean very happy this his new water making system is working

Oh I love Suva local buses. Except many have the Israeli flag hanging off the side mirror. Huh?

Chin and some of her gorgeous family in Nausori. Real masala tea!

Lorena braving the jetty. She was way better at it than me. It was lovely to share the joy of unusual ways to get to school with her.

Ah huh.

Lorena loving the drua.

Mylo – thanks Tracey & Ed for your lovely house and crazy dog

Pacific Harbour

Pacific Harbour, not just a tourist ick.

Navua town, between Suva and Pacific Harbour

Lawaki Beach House on Beqa Island. Lovely time here.

Going for a walk to see how Cyclone Winstone had destroyed the place where locals stay to tend to their gardens.

My view from a local bus on the way to uni.

The National Women’s Expo in Suva. At one point a whole bunch of women got up on stage, grabbed the microphone from the male MC, and erupted into song and dance.

Dean waiting for me to get ready in the mornings before he drops me on land.

Suva.

It’s exhausting having adventures every day.

The holy water stream at Damasamu. Locals made an incredible decision not to charge entry, or sell bottled water, despite offers of millions dollars. Thanks Chin, for an awesome, memorable day. Love to your family.

Suva.

Doggy outside WWF in “NGO street” in Suva.

Our little paradise home in Suva.

This is how I get to school!

The University of the South Pacific. So lovely.