Bula, bula, bula vinaka. It’s going to be a little hard to articulate our experiences over the past month. There are small things, mainly from the sea… sitting with the women on the beach, relaxing, then watching them suddenly rush to the water to catch sara, little fish; snorkelling at Damu Bay and feeling like I was swimming with the fish; watching the kids spearing fish in small rock pools with spears made of broken umbrella spokes and rubber, or making mud pie, transporting mud and water in a squished teapot; finding bits of roof in the sea from Cyclone Winston, everywhere, just everywhere. And there are big things…feeling the impact of how development has been rolled over this country. Mostly though, meeting people whose knowledge, kindness, wisdom and sense of fun has changed us.

We have been in Ovalau in Central Eastern Fiji (Lomaiviti province) for nearly a month. We usually only spend 2-3 days in one place when we are cruising. But when you stay longer you connect differently. Unfortunately some ning nong wrote in a few cruising guides that anchoring in Levuka was bad with poor holding and rolly seas, so there aren’t as many boats that come here now. Yes, it’s a little rolly sometimes but not so much, and the holding has been fine up to 20 knot winds. This town was the first capital of Fiji and has a long and eclectic European history. But more importantly, it has an important and fascinating pre-European history. It’s a place for all the villages around the island to meet up, selling produce, pick up a few supplies and get to Suva. Forget about your own agenda, and just relax. We’ve eaten at Whale’s Tail, Sea Site (our favourite – there’s a cute restaurant room at the back – great curry) and the Chinese restaurant above the bank. There’s just one street where you wander back and forward, and explore the back alleys and life. Senga la nega (don’t worry), you won’t get lost!

We then spent three weeks in villages around the island. Most were destroyed in Cyclone Winston in 2016. Their crops are growing back, but it’s unseasonably dry it’s slow growing. Seedlings for replanting just aren’t there. The richness here in other ways is overwhelming. My research is more like friendship that starts with kindness. You’ll have to read my thesis next year to find out more!

This is the first fabric created by one amazing woman. She is taking orders for Christmas presents. Contact me if you want one: $120-$200 + postage depending on size. Wall hanging, bed spread… money goes to the village Women’s Group so they can attend expo’s to sell their creations.

Our favourite, unassuming place is Damu Bay, on the North West of Ovalau, between Taviya and Rukuruku. You can sail inside the reef from Leleuvia Island. It’s small and unassuming and the sunset is surreal. It’s good holding in sand too with only a slight swell.  You can bush-bash to the wee road – left takes you to the village of Taviya, and right takes you to the village of Rukuruku. Yes, you must do sevusevu (in Taviya). I get sick of cruisers who try to avoid sevusevu. It’s a really big insult – this is Fiji and respecting their customs is the very least you can do. Would you like it if someone came and camped on your front lawn without saying hi? If you are just there overnight its okay to not do sevusevu, but if you go on the beach or visit the village, or walk on the road, please do. Ask anyone and they may take you up to the top of the mountain too. It’s anywhere between 2-10 hours depending on how far you go and how fit you are.

We are in Levuka again now to drop Laura off, Dean’s daughter. She has joined us from New Zealand for an action-packed week. It’s been so fantastic being able to share this with her – now she will know what we rave about at home!  Then we are off to Makogai Island to see the bubby turtles, and then my final research location – Gau Island. Then back to Suva for a few weeks before we head home to New Zealand. I think part of our hearts will always be in Fiji, with the people we have met. Zeeeeeeeeeennnnnnnnnaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

Dean’s new toy, Electic D400 wind generator. Our batteries were draining too much overnight and now they don’t. Yippee. Also, we no longer have to turn the engine on just to recharge the batteries. It’s not noisy. It’s like a wind chime really.

Click on the photos below to read the captions.

Blurry, but once again, a dinghy ride means either going to an adventure or coming back from one. I have now perfected the art of flicking my jandals into the dinghy as I get off onto the boat. So talented.

Art work made of dried fish scales and painted. The women here are very, very creative and clever. EVERYTHING can be considered creative.

Pigs, prized possessions, and the first thing the kids wanted us to see.

Can’t see the wrinkles when you have glasses on.

My fabulous friend, Salote. See you in Wellington, brrrrrrr!

The Levuka Town Council office, one of the oldest buildings in Levuka. It’s like a 1920s theatre, stage and all.

The back of the Royal Hotel.

Sigh.

Recycling, we think.

The commemoration of when Fiji was handed over to the colonial Government. I am biting my tongue.

What is it about this place?

Levuka, side street.

Where there is a will there is a way here.

No rubber bands for this bokchoy.

Oh my sweetie darling.

Breakfast. Snack. Lunch. Dinner.

Thank you Reuben and Asina, and Helen and Betty xox

This church was made in early 1900s out of coral. Winston only blew the roof off.

Low tide.

A village in Lovoni, in the interior of Ovalau.

SUP, village style.

Dean looking for a good place to anchor. Another cruiser gripe of mine – please don’t drop your anchor on a patch of coral. This coral feeds the fish, which feeds the people.